This morning we said goodbye to the Twin Pines Campground, our home for the past 3 nights, and drove the short journey to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Famous for being the site where in 1840 the Maori Chiefs and British representatives signed the Treaty proclaiming New Zealand to be a sovereign state.
After watching a short video about the regions history pre and post 1840 we walked through the grounds to the Maori Waka (canoe). At 35 metres long it takes 76 paddlers to handle safely on the water. It was launched in 1940 to mark the centenary celebrations, and named after the voyaging waka in which the explorer Kupe first visited Aotearoa (New Zealand) over 1000 years ago, to claim the country for the Maori. The intricate carvings on the vessel were beautiful, and slightly intimidating, as the face on the bow (pictured below) shows!
Next stop was the site believed to be where the treaty was signed, now marked with a mast and plaque.
The views from the lawn where we stood were stunning, affording us a 180 degree glance around the Bay of Islands.
Inside the Treaty House, which stood nestled behind the site of the treaty signing we took a self guided tour of the former British residency. Erected in 1833-34 for James Busby, the British Government appointed ‘British Resident in New Zealand’, thus put in place at an unstable period in the history of this area.
When the then capital Russell (across the bay from Waitangi) was known as the ‘Hell-hole of the Pacific’; infamous for its lawless Whalers, Sealers and Traders and also the infighting between the Maori tribes it was a difficult time. Busby however, had no power in a time when the musket ruled and as the British immigrant population grew rapidly the crown was called upon to step in to enforce order.
In January 1840 Captain William Hobson arrived to make a treaty with the Maori chiefs on behalf of the British Government, and in May 1840 British Sovereignty was proclaimed over Aotearoa (New Zealand), bringing two nations together.
Te Whare Runanga was placed in the treaty grounds to signify the important part the Maori had to play in the signing, and this traditionally designed meeting house represents all Maori tribes in NZ.
Every pillar inside was carved by each individual tribe and represented an aspect of their culture/belief system. On the apex of the gable outside was Kupe himself (pictured below left).
Full with the mornings history lesson we started our drive north westwards, stopping on the way out of Paihia at Hururu Falls.
A couple of hours drive later and we had reached our destination…the furthest campsite north that we would stay in Ahipara Holiday Park on the north west coast of the Northland.
We took a walk down to 90 Mile Beach, and stood marvelling at the rugged beauty of Shipwreck Bay (famous obviously for the number of ships to get wrecked in it’s deadly bay). And, at the lazy woman who chucked her dog out of the car and ‘walked it’ on the beach by driving along as it chased her (pictured below left)!
And, if you can’t tell from the pictures…Ben isn’t doing a kooky dance move, but trying to stay upright against the strong winds that have moved in!
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